Cantabria - Spain's best kept secret
- Claire Ottaviano
- Apr 14, 2017
- 7 min read
The possibilities in Cantabria are endless. Even with two months we only just began to scratch the surface of all the things to explore here. In summer you have the beach, in winter you have the mountains, it's a win win whenever you come although I'm going to share with you some of our favourite places to go in winter. For two months we exchanged a few hours of our time each day to have the opportunity to take life at a slower pace and enjoy exploring Cantabria piece by piece.
Through Workaway.info we met a Spanish family who invited us to live in their home and help with their daily life. Our hosts made us feel at home and their children (aged 6 and 11) just wanted to play and have fun. We had every day until 4.20pm free as well as weekends although we chose to go with the family on excursions several times. After school we would collect the children, go home, complete their homework, make dinner, play games, learn music or just hang out.
To learn more about our experience with Workaway Click Here. (coming soon)
In this way we became one of the community. We would stop to chat with locals at school pick up and became friends with their friends. We awoke early most days to go for a run to the Iglesias on the hill, over the mountains or to the sea!
As well as exploring Northern Spain we also had time to set about planning our wedding and were also busy applying for work at summer camps in Canada.
When we weren’t behind our computer screens we were off exploring! Being winter we were often faced with grey skies and threatening clouds. Other days we were spoiled with warm sunshine, but no matter the weather Cantabria has so much to offer.
Santillana Del Mar
First on the list for its close proximity to our local town of Oreňa. We would drive here every day to pick the children up from school. Santillana Del Mar has been called the village of three lies. Santa (saint), llana (flat) and del mar (by the sea), of which the town has none of. It is not believed to have had its own saint, it's on fairly hilly ground and it has no sea.
However, it is a town steeped in history and attracts thousands of visitors each year to its medieval buildings, narrow cobbled streets and noblemen’s houses. Its central area is pedestrian only.
The town is built around the Santa Juliana Colegiata, which was originally a monastery, but was converted into a church in the 12th Century. It has been built in a Romanesque style and is the biggest of its kind in Cantabria. As well as the Colegiata the town has several museums, most notably the Museum of Torture with artefacts stretching back to the time of the Spanish Inquisition. https://discovercantabria.wordpress.com/2012/07/27/santillana-del-mar-the-town-of-three-lies/
My favourite part about Santillana is Altamira and below you’ll learn why!
Altamira
Altamira is controversial because it is said that the cave paintings that reside inside challenge everything we believe about the cognitive development of people 35,000 years ago.
After its discovery in 1879 it has been opened and closed to the public several times due to damage to the paintings from excessive carbon dioxide. A replica cave was built in the museum at Altamira to continue education and visitors to the site.
Two years ago it was decided that five people would be drawn from a lottery each Friday to enter the caves.
You cannot imagine the feeling, the awe, when I laid on my back underneath these precious paintings and stayed in the silence with my torch beam slowly examining each piece.
I feel like I didn’t deserve the opportunity. Many had stood before me, hoping, wishing to have their name called, and the young girl from Down Under could barely understand what was being said to her in Spanish down in those caves.
I’ll never forget it. You can't take pictures inside the caves but here’s a picture of me in an unflattering scientific type suit thing and pictures of the postcards I bought.
Ubiarco
What a gem. Ubiarco has everything, a beach perfect for seaside sunning (when there is sun), cliffs, ruins of an old tower and a historical church built in 987. It is also the closest beach to Santillana Del Mar.
In low tide the Santa Justa beach has smooth yellow sand perfect for sun bathers, in high tide the sea envelops the beach and almost engulfs the church
We braved strong winds on this day to see the surf battering this little piece of paradise.
Camino De Santiago
Cantabria holds a beautiful stretch of the Camino De Santiago, a Pilgrimage trail, or Camino, stretching across northern Spain.
So lucky for us, our host family's home literally sat on the Camino De Santiago, in summer a steady stream of pilgrims pass by the house every hour. We didn't know there are actually several different routes to the Camino De Santiago, along the northern route you will find rolling hills with the sea on one side and the mountains ahead with rolling green hills and pleasant towns in between. You can't go wrong where ever you join the trail. Walk, bike, one day, two days, two months, it's a memorable experience.
Comillas Our destination on this particular ride was the understated town of Comillas. It has some of the most important Art Nouveau buildings in Cantabria, which include Sobrellano Palace Chapel and the Pantheon, the Pontifical University and the El Capricho by Antoni Gaudi (It was too expensive for us to go in so we had a peak over the wall!)
Add it to the list of places in Cantabria with beautiful beaches and you have yourself a winner.
San Vincente. Great place to go but we went on an aweeeffulll day. To get to the town you must drive across a long bridge over the river that runs into the ocean. Local lore says if you hold your breath the whole way while making a wish it will come true. It is a fishing town with magnificent views to the Picos de Europa on a clear day.
Suances
On the first weekend we travelled with the family outside of the province to purchase a 1969 car that the family wanted to restore. Lagartija (named for my continuous mispronunciation of the Spanish word for lizard) also became our go-kart (more go-kart than car) to pick up the children from school and for short excursions.
Only 15 minutes from our house, we should have visit Suances more often!
Suances is located in the central coast of Cantabria, in the Ría de San Martín de la Arena, where the rivers Saja and Besaya flow to the Cantabric sea.
Suances has no less than five beautiful beaches - La Tablía, Los Locos, La Concha, La Ribera and La Riberuca. As you can see we were there on a beautiful winter's day.
Comberas De Los Moros - San Vicente
Tucked into a little valley, the town of San Vicente sits under the shroud of the Cambera de los Moros, not so much mountains but very large hills. We were having hike withdrawals from America by this point and we were determined to conquer these moors despite impending rain. There was a wedding or some large event happening on the day we went and we could hear music playing through the valley through the entire hike. Half way up they set off fireworks.
Note, research which trail you want to take before you go and it would be handy to speak some Spanish so that you could ask for directions once you’re in the town.
We wanted to take the ‘direct route’ which seemed to lead out of the East side of town. So off we head, following what looked like a hiking trail but half way up it ran out and we ended up scrambling our way through some thick bush and prickly thorns to make it to the top! It was worth it when we got there! Once at the top you can see over both sides of the valley and on a clear day all the way to the Picos de Europa.
I suggest checking the maps and spectacular pictures on this site here
Picos De Europa
The stunning Picos de Europa are the jewel in Cantabria’s crown. Fuente De is about a two-hour drive from Oreña. We took the cable car up the mountains which was a little expensive at 19€ a person for a return but it is worth every penny. The area is a favourite with skiers and snowshoers too so you will see many around if you go in winter. You can also hike up this almost sheer rock face but there was too much ice and snow still in February.
Once your up the top there are numerous hiking routes or you can hike back down! I would suggest that you buy, borrow or hire some snowshoes.
Santoña – To the lighthouse!
Another hike with a fabulous ending! Definitely a safe one for families because we went with our Spanish hosts (children 6 and 11) but also for the more advanced hikers because you can do a loop around the whole island as well but we just did the return to the lighthouse.
You will walk around the edge of the peninsular for around an hour before coming to a sudden drop in the cliffs. Here you will descend 700 steps to the Lighthouse.
You can access the trailhead from San Martin fort (Fuerte San Martín). If you can, come on a calm day! The waters are magical in the summer time and for us it was extremely windy and rainy (typical Cantabria weather but it won’t stop you getting out there if you have no other choice).
Oreña
Finally, just a few pictures from our 'home' town Orena. Not necessarily a place you need to stop at, These towns are a dime a dozen and I recommend you pull off at the smallest of towns for a break if you’re driving through. They all have unique qualities and show the ‘real’ Spanish life.
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